Photo Set-up on Glass
This is the set-up I use for photographing jewelry on glass. The glass and the reflections created by the jewelry, the lights, and the papers used, create more contrast than some of the other set-ups shown. The glass is the "non-glare" type that is used in framing art. The non-glare side is up. The glass is suspended above a black piece of paper that sits inside a Plexiglas frame. This frame is 11X14", to give an idea of the size of the box. Using black Plexiglas instead of the glass will create more contrast and sharper shadows.
The frame sits inside a cardboard box . The box is lined with black matte board and I generally use white or silver cardboard on the sides as reflectors when needed to add more light on the jewelry. This "black box" can really soak up the light, unlike the white tent set-up which will bounce the light in all directions.
In the photo above, the front top flap is down to show the round cut-out without any paper diffusion over it. When the flap is up, it blocks the strong top light from hitting the lens and causing flair.
This photo shows the double layer of tracing paper taped over the hole to diffuse the strong light (500 w) that is suspended above. More layers can be added as needed or white cloth can be used. The top light can be moved up and down and the distance from the hole will change the look of the "spotlight" reflected on the glass below.
Two more lights (250w each) are placed on either side of the camera with a white cloth (curtain) placed across the front opening of the box to diffuse their light.
The camera lens pokes through an opening in the curtain.
This photo shows how the spotlight looks if the camera angle to the glass is almost perpendicular... looking almost directly down on the glass. Only the top light is on for this example.
Adjusting the angle of the camera to the glass will change where the lights and darks fall on the glass. A low angle will move the spotlight to the front of the glass, leaving the back area dark. To the left is the photo above, a silver reflector can be seen. This will shine on the front of the ring but not on the glass.
This is the finished photo from the example at the top of this page. The "spot light" is partially on the bracelet, leaving the back area darker. This is a type of "drop shadow" effect where the light is partially blocked.
In the photo above, the full "spotlight" is used to add drama to the image. Bracelet by Cheri Lewis
This is the finished photo of the ring where the camera is at low angle to the glass, straight on to the front of the ring. The "spotlight" is falling in front of the ring, out of the frame but lighting the ring indirectly. A white fill card to the right of the ring lights the band. The silver card at the left is like a mirror and adds a brighter reflection on the front of the ring. The two lights at the front of the set-up shine partially on the ring and partially on the two fill cards. Ring made by Maja.
CAMERA AND LENS INFORMATION:
In the photo of the red poppy bracelet at top of page, I am using a 50mm macro lens on a Canon EOS 30D digital SLR camera. I set the camera for aperture priority and close the lens down for best depth-of-field. I can tell the camera to automatically bracket after I set what I believe will be the best exposure. I use the "custom white balance" feature to get a good white balance. Even though the camera is on a tripod, I use the delayed shutter release option so that I am not touching the camera when the photo is taken.